Chef Hussain Shahzad and restaurateur Yash Bhanage are two of the creative minds behind The Bombay Canteen, a celebrated gem in India's restaurant scene. This innovative restaurant has been a fixture for nearly a decade, attracting those eager to explore the rich diversity of India's traditional recipes—many of which remain undiscovered and underappreciated outside the country. The Bombay Canteen artfully combines these traditional dishes with contemporary presentations, offering a dining experience that is both nostalgic and exciting. Building on the success of The Bombay Canteen, Chef Hussain, Yash and their band of brothers have also introduced another exciting outlet called Papa's, further enriching the culinary scene.
Indian cuisine, renowned for its diverse and rich flavours, often faces misconceptions and broad generalisations. This culinary tradition is a vibrant reflection of India's many regions, each with its own unique ingredients and cooking techniques. Every dish tells a story, showcasing the rich cultural heritage that informs it. To combat misunderstandings, many Indian chefs and restaurants, including The Bombay Canteen, are actively working to clarify the true nature of their cuisine, addressing misconceptions surrounding terms like curry, chicken tikka masala, and butter chicken with naan. This effort not only promotes a better understanding of Indian food but also highlights its depth and variety.
Yash noted, "The misconception about Indian food arises because Indian restaurants outside India often categorise themselves as serving either Southern Indian cuisine—featuring dishes like fish curry, egg curry, and dosa—or Northern Indian dishes, such as kebabs and naan. However, it is important to note that chicken tikka masala is not an authentic Indian dish; rather, it is a British invention that originated from the creativity of a Pakistani immigrant chef in Glasgow."
He shared an experience from The Bombay Canteen: "Since we launched the restaurant, we consciously decided not to include chicken tikka masala or butter chicken on our menu. One day, a customer specifically requested chicken tikka masala. We tried to guide him toward an alternative dish that we believed would better represent our menu, but instead, he walked straight into the kitchen. There, he approached our chef and asked, 'If you have chicken, tandoor, and masala on hand, why don't you make chicken tikka masala for me?'" His determination highlighted how deeply ingrained certain expectations about Indian food have become.
Chef Hussain further emphasised, "There are countless dishes and repertoires in India that remain uncovered. What India has shared with the world so far is just a small taste of our vast array of cuisines. India is an enormous, diverse country filled with a multitude of states, regions, languages, cultures, and, of course, flavours. To label all these distinct culinary practices under the term 'Indian cuisine' feels inadequate. Instead, I like to refer to it as the 'cuisines of India,' reflecting the incredible variety and depth that each region brings to our gastronomic landscape. Our goal is not to preach but to motivate people in India to think about what Indian food means to them today."
Yash explained, "To address the misconceptions about Indian food, we believe it's important to engage more than just our dining guests. At The Bombay Canteen, we host an event called Canteen Class on a Saturday each month. During this time, we close the restaurant and invite hospitality students to discuss topics not typically covered in hospitality schools. We have been doing this for nine years, helping these students develop their voices and inspiring them to explore the various opportunities within India's food and beverage industry."
In 2025, The Bombay Canteen will commemorate its 10th anniversary with great fanfare. This esteemed restaurant has garnered a multitude of accolades, including recognition from Tatler Asia and a noteworthy position on Asia's 50 Best Bars 2023. While it hasn't yet broken into the coveted top 50 list, it proudly holds the impressive rank of No. 70. Riding on this wave of success, the talented team behind The Bombay Canteen has launched a new venture called Papa's—a 12-seated fine dining restaurant with a fun twist, inviting guests to experience fine dining refreshingly and entertainingly.
"Indian cuisine is relatively new to the fine dining scene," said Chef Hussain. "At Papa's, we don't take ourselves too seriously, but we take our food and hospitality very seriously. Having grown up in the atmosphere of fine dining restaurants, I understand the importance of creating memorable experiences. The essence of our philosophy centres around two key fundamental values: deliciousness and grace. We focus on providing graceful hospitality, serving delicious food, and throwing a banging party at night."
"We don't want Papa's to be like other fine dining restaurants, with the white tablecloths and formal vibe. Our goal is to be approachable." Yash remarked, "Instead of just serving Indian dishes, we follow the philosophy of Indian cuisine. Because of this approach, some people might think our food is not Indian."
"We are working to showcase India and what it represents today. So, what we consider to be Indian is something that comes from Indian soil. For example, Italian-style cheese made from Indian milk—this, to me, is Indian because an Indian has put their heart and soul into doing it," Chef Hussain added, "Our country has a rich history. I often say, 'Authenticity is a term associated with cultures that possess a long-standing history, like Chinese and Thai cuisine. However, for authenticity to truly emerge, innovation must first take place. The innovations of today can become the authenticity of tomorrow.'"
The name "Papa's" pays tribute to the late Chef Floyd Cardoz, a culinary pioneer who played a pivotal role in introducing Indian fine dining to the United States. Chef Floyd was renowned for being the only person of colour whom the famous Chef Gray Kunz promoted to the position of Chef de Cuisine at Lespinasse Restaurant at St. Regis New York. His innovative approach, which blended Indian flavours with French cuisine, established him as a trailblazer in the culinary world. Additionally, Chef Floyd was a beloved mentor to Chef Hussain, profoundly shaping his journey and inspiring the creation of this restaurant. He is considered a father figure by Chef Hussain, Yash, and the teams behind both The Bombay Canteen and Papa's.
"We want to preserve his memory in the happiest way possible," said Yash. "The location of Papa's is where the once 80-year-old bakery stood, across from Chef Floyd's childhood home. He often shared stories about getting bread from that bakery. Having our restaurant situated above what was once his favourite bakery is the best way to cherish him, which is why we chose to name this restaurant 'Papa's.'"
The two kitchens continue to breathe life into these legacies, each showcasing their unique takes on the rich tapestry of India's diverse food culture and embracing the profound philosophy that underlies Indian food, reflecting its deep-rooted traditions and inviting patrons to experience the flavours, aromas, and stories that each dish embodies.
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